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I wrote this as a review for the Scosche branded one:

I actually purchased the Metra version here from Amazon, but the pics are identical, and I wanted to share my thoughts about the product.

First, it includes front and rear speakers, power, ground, full time power (clock, memory presets), Illumination/dimming *(one wire for both), power antenna/amp turn on *(one wire for both).

My factory harness had phone mute, which this adapter did not include. Also, maybe it’s a BMW thing, but notice the Illumination and dimming are one wire, also the power antenna and the amp turn-on is one lead. On both my cars, the aftermarket stereos (Sony, JVC) illuminate when powered on, and dim when the parking lights are on, the amount of dimming can be controlled via menu, but not by the car, and neither of them have power antenna’s.

One important difference between the Metra and the Scosche, is the Metra has a huge filter/choke one of the power leads, the memory lead I think it was. Made for a difficult installation, as it was located close to the already huge factory connector. Tucking them both inside the hole in the dash was difficult. On the other hand, they surely thought it was necessary, and the Scosche appears to exclude it, via the picture. I have no noise issues on either the Coupe (no choke filter) or the convertible (has choke filter).

Generally, the fit and finish was very good, but the power and ground leads should have been heavier gauge wiring, as most head units have double to triple the output of the original Alpine unit.

Important note: Both my cars have factory amps installed, you MUST connect the blue wire to use the factory speakers. Replacing those will be my next challenge.

*****

General install notes on BMW E36 models (3-series, from 1991-1999):

1.) The factory radio has little tabs on left and right sides, pop open these tabs to reveal a funky/odd screw (5-sided). Use a hex/allen wrench (6-sided) and you USUALLY can get those screws loosened up, then the radio slides right out. The factor harnass has a sliding dis-engagement lever. Look for an icon on the connector, insert the screw driver as shown to remove the harnass. (thankfully, the wiring adapter connects and releases much more smoothly, no screw driver needed.)

2.) You have plenty of room to work. But if you are installing amps or other accessories, how the ^%$)! do you get the dash apart to route the wires? There are many paths, depending on your skill level and patience. My skill level and patience are both low on the scale, so here’s the easy way:
a) You have a empty box, for sunglasses, etc, located under the piece of crap on-board-computer, right? Feel inside the storage bin, on the top. There you will find an indentation/hole.
b) Press up and the on board computer above will pop out partially. Wiggle out the onboard computer, it’s only about 3 or 4 inches deep, and very light weight, and has a very long cable harness.
c) Remove the storage bin (and 12v power socket, and some switch(es)) by lifting up on the assembly.
d) On the right hand side (at least on right hand drive models), you will have quite a big space to drop your cables down behind the onboard computer and the storage bin.
e) I ran my cables inside the shifter-console tunnel, then under the very short bit of carpet between the console and the rear seat. But you will see many ways to route cables once you get them down from inside the radio box.

3.) Mounting amps. The rear seat on both my coupe and my convertible both remove VERY easily. On the bottom section, the seat is removed by simply lifting UP at the front (where your knees go.) Pop loose on the left and right (at the same time preferably), then just wiggle it out of there. The back rest removal is easy on the convertible, pull forward at the head rest area, and same as the bottom cushion, it will pop loose in two locations, then lift it up and out (with the top down). The coupe seats I couldn’t remove, they did fold down however and I was able to route the wires then.

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