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Kicker 100W Car Audio Stereo Input Sub Amp with Housing Reviews
Kicker 100W Car Audio Stereo Input Sub Amp with Housing
- Designed and manufactured by Kicker
- Mono Class-D amplifier
- 100 watts RMS into a 1 ohm load
- Optimized for low impedance speakers
- Unique DC offset-sensing turn-on circuitry
This small yet powerful subwoofer amplifier is designed and manufactured by Kicker, one of the most recognized names in car audio. It was offered originally as a dealer installed subwoofer upgrade for specific OEM stereo systems. Features include stereo high level inputs (line level inputs are not included), 100 watts RMS @ 1 ohm power output, and a 150 Hz @ 12 dB/octave fixed low pass filter. Includes Kicker logo housing and OEM connector (not shown). Dimensions: 4″ H x 7-1/4″ W x 1-7/8″ D. Buyout, limited quantities.
List Price: $ 149.99
Price: $ 9.88








3 Users Response In " Kicker 100W Car Audio Stereo Input Sub Amp with Housing Reviews "
Great Little Amp and there is a trick to get it to turn on.,
I bought two of these.
After a little research I found they are the units from kicker for a Chrysler 300.
I cut off the plug ran a high level speaker signal to it and nothing happened. I was messing with it for a while and came back here to check what partsE had recommended. Then I noticed DC offset. This is key. If you are going to bench this your speaker level input has to be “seen” by the amps circuitry. I could not get this thing to turn; then I wondered if I bridged a wire from one of the Solid Green or Solid Grey wires to the Negative that would provide the offset seen in car audio installs since chassis is ground. Well come to find out the amp will turn on only if there is a decent strong high level signal and its bridged from the Negative of the power supply to one of the Solid color speaker level inputs. Remove this wire and the amp shuts off. voilà There is your turn on lead.
Now performace was tested using a 250V 80 amp Sorensen(Raytheon) 0-20V Power supply and an in line Ammeter (no inaccurate clamps here) I was seeing about 1 amp draw at 15 volts on a low undistored signal. I could not turn it up at the time since it would literally light up my 15 inch Powerbass dual 1 ohm subwoofer I have sitting in the garage. I am guessing this amp wont do 100 watts continuous. With a factory radio driving this amp it may see 60 watts RMS by my quick check of amps x volts. Take that for what its worth.
Just like everything I get… I took it apart and found 6 transistors labled IRFZ44R. After doing a little looking around. These same devices were used to repair Rockford Fosgate The Punch amplifiers in the early 90′s among other amps… The Mosfet devices are stamped 424k and 9216 respectivly. Checking the data sheet it means these were made in 1992 week 16. Also a nice set of capacitors and a decent circuit board layout. Built in 23 NOV 2004.
To sum up the small testing I have done I could see powering a dual 1 ohm sub with these or my next test will be to STRAP them, haha, love messing with 10 dollar stuff. I could give a 2 ohm load 200 watts rms strapped and the footprint of these amps are awesome (tiny).
The amp and subwoofer from Kicker would cost you around 500 dollars for the setup. You can get this amp for 10 bucks!
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|Very good for the price.,
For 10$ + Shipping. This is a great deal if your looking to power a small low wattage subwoofer.
Only thing that sucks is it didn’t come with instructions to install it since it goes in a Chrysler 300, as the stock sub amp.
Amplifier Installation Instructions
This 100 watt subwoofer amplifier is turned on by and receives its musical signal from the left and right speaker wires. It is powered by the vehicle’s factory radio and protected by the vehicle’s factory radio fuse. The amplifier senses the input signal’s DC offset relative to ground and should turn on when the factory radio is turned on.
The following six connections from the Kicker sub amplifier are to be made to the vehicle’s factory radio harness:
1. The red wire connects to the constant +12V wire in the radio harness. The vehicle’s audio system fuse will protect the subwoofer amp.
2. The black wire connects to chassis ground.
3. The solid green wire connects to the left positive speaker wire (either front or rear).
4. The green/black wire connects to the left negative speaker wire (either front or rear).
5. The grey wire connects to the right positive speaker wire (either front or rear).
6. The grey/black wire connects to the right negative speaker wire (either front or rear).
7. The separate grey and black wires (not part of the harness) connect to the subwoofer.
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|This is a great replacement part.,
The product I could not get to work but the sell helped me and sent me a new and the refund right away.
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